Author: 1st-line

We were just informed this morning by Rocket Espresso that new FAST espresso machines will be launching in the USA after their European launch.

Below are the press releases and marketing materials:

Mozzafiato Fast_Product Marketing Launch_EN

Giotto Fast_Product Marketing Launch_EN

Sorry, we do not have any more information, such as launch dates, pricing, etc at this time.

To adjust the pump pressure on the Rocket EPICA dual boiler lever espresso machine, the top and right panels need to be removed.

The blue arrow in the picture above points to the location of the adjustment screw. With a screwdriver, rotate the screw clockwise for high pressure and counterclockwise to lower the pressure.  Before adjusting the pump pressure, please be aware of the following three (3) things:

First, please note the screw should be turned in 1/4 increments and the machine tested. If the covers are off during testing, please do not stack any objects or body parts as 1st-line will not be responsible for any physical damages or injuries.

Second, the maximum pressure needs to remain under 11 bar as the OPV may relieve any pressure below 11 bar of pump pressure. Third, if the inline water pressure from a direct water connection is too low, there may be noises resulting from cavitation.

Here at 1st-line, we bench every single machine we ship. Prior to Breville purchasing Lelit in 2022, the entire Lelit line of espresso machines was the exception. In 2024, we had to start testing the entire Lelit line. Yesterday, we had a Lelit Bianca leaking from the manual grouphead valve. We took off the lower valve only to find build up on a brand new machine. The build up was not allowing a proper seal, and thus, when the group head lever was lifted, water leaked from the lower manual valve on the group head. In addition, the actual seal was imprinted.

Question is why is there build up on a brand new machine built in 2024? Why is the black gasket with an imprint?

653867, 632663, 632719

A customer contacted us about his ACS Minima dual boiler espresso machine.  This machine was way past the warranty expiration and it has the optional wood knobs that are worn.  Their ACS Minima was not allowing any hot water from the hot water wand, nor steam from the steam wand to exit when either valve was opened. The customer confirmed the coffee boiler was getting hot. And, our customer confirmed the PID display alternately showed the temperature of the coffee boiler as well as the temperature of the steam boiler.  We asked the customer the following,

“With unit unplugged and cold, please remove top cover and press this black button. if it clicks, you are most likely good

https://1st-line.us/buy/acs-one0027/

Check for any loose wires and put cover back on

Take out reservoir and access the bottom port – three allen key screws. make sure both wires are connected to the heating element posts.”

The customer replied,

“Thanks for your quick response. The pid shows the actual temp and I can still adjust it up or down. I have it set a 126C for the steam. It does cycle between the group and steam boiler temp.

I have it plugged into a standard kitchen outlet. Just moved into the apartment, so I do not know the rating. See attached picture.

Until today, I had been running the machine on Crystal Gesyer water only. Today I filled it up with NYC tap water for the first time. As I said, I just moved here so I had the steam boiler empty for transport. I filled it using the soft start (no power to the element) as directed in the Minima manual. The group head is getting up to temp and making espresso as usual. When the PID says 126 on the steam, I open the valve and get just a few drips. Same with the water spout. No steam release coming out of the top.

The black button did not click when I pushed it. No loose wires under the boiler. The factory settings for the advanced settings were not what is recommended in the manual. I had myself never changed these. So I restored them to the factory settings.

At some point when I was making sure the heating elements were off for the refill, I think I got what looked like a “Psr” code on the PID display. But not since.

It seems to me that the boiler is full and is heating up. I can hear it coming up to pressure around 215F and then the vacuum seal closing around 225 or so. When I change the steam boiler temp I can hear the heating elements coming on and off. Strange. It almost seems like the valves in the faucet and steam wand are not in fact opening when I turn the knobs. I can’t imagine there’s a solenoid controlling them. Blocked by scale? But it seems even stranger that both would fail at the same time. It did come across country on a moving van last week and would perhaps have been in sub freezing temps.

Any help much appreciated. Also, the brew boiler is fine and making good espresso.”

The code shown on the display (Psr) resulted from the reset the customer performed. At this point, we knew the issue was in the valves and something may happened while the customer had a moving company move his belongings, including his dual boiler espresso machine, from one state to another state during very freezing weather. We asked him take apart the valve by removing the valve stems from each vale AFTER the machine was fully cooled down and unplugged from the electrical outlet. Our customer replied with a positive outcome,

“I took apart the valves for the faucet and the steam wand. Reassembled. Voila! Both are working, as is the boiler (which I think was never the problem). Thanks for your help. And patience.”

A customer complained yesterday that their steam boiler was overheating. In this situation, the first thing we ask is which water are you using? And, not to our surprise, the customer was using mineral packets added to distilled water. Sorry, we will not mention the well known brand. We do not recommend using this type of water. First, stop using the machine! Continued use with an overheat will damage the heating elements.

There is one way to fully descale the PID on the steam boiler. First, on a machine that is cold and not plugged into an electrical outlet, the top cover can be removed using our video. The steam boiler is in the lower left bottom corner in the picture below. Second, the red wire on top can be disconnected and the fitting removed to allow descaling solution to be poured into the hole with a funnel – to the top of the boiler – DO NOT ALLOW the solution to spill anywhere outside the hole!  If solution gets into the machine, the machine will need to sit for a minimum of 24 hours to avoid damage from water touching any electrical components which can be shorted and damaged without warranty coverage. Insert the fitting with plumbers tape (about 3 wraps) back and tighten into the hole. Reconnect the red wire and put the top panel back on (after confirming the inside is dry). Third, allow the machine to sit cold for 8 hours.

Fill the reservoir with water and connect it to the machine’s back port for water. Turn on the machine and allow it to heat up. While heating, place towels on the front drip tray and panel to prevent descaling solution to ruin the machine’s finish. Place a vessel that can accept hot water under the hot water spout, and empty it when it’s 3/4 full.

Once heated, depress the hot water switch to allow descaling solution to come out. Once the pump kicks in, shut off the hot water switch. Allow the machine to re-heat the steam boiler. After 5 minutes, depress the hot water switch to displace more solution with water. This process needs to occur until 2 full reservoirs of water are depleted through the steam boiler. This insures the solution was displaced.

Test the machine and make sure it does not overheat. If it does, then stop using the machine and a different, more manual process will be needed to clean the PID sensor.

We received the following inquiry today:

Dear 1st line team,

I am reaching out to inquire about espresso machines available in your inventory or within your expertise that are designed to avoid the use of plastic components in their internal mechanisms, particularly those that come into contact with heated water or coffee.

As a consumer, I am keen on ensuring that the beverages I prepare do not come into contact with heated plastic due to health and taste considerations. Therefore, I am looking for machines that exclusively use stainless steel, brass, or other non-plastic materials for components such as boilers, water lines, and brewing chambers.

If you have any models that meet these criteria or could recommend brands known for such designs, I would greatly appreciate your guidance. Additionally, if there are technical specifications or certifications that I should look for to confirm this aspect, I would welcome your insights.

Thank you for your time and assistance. I look forward to your response.

We understand the desire to not have any plastic or rubber inside an espresso machine, BUT EVERY espresso machine has to have some plastic or rubber inside. This includes rubber o-rings found in vibration and rotary vane pumps, rubber or viton seals to prevent leaks of steam or hot water in boiler fittings, rubber o-rings and possibly rubber nucleus including manual and/or solenoid valves, and gaskets in the grouphead, such as the portafilter gaskets and rubber o-rings inside an E61 grouphead. Then, let us not forget the poly tubes in no-burn steam and hot water wands.

Some time in 2022 or 2023, we had some customers who had their wooden knobs sliding off the steam valve on the Lelit Bianca. A customer who just bought a Lelit Bianca from us on December 21, 2024, reported to us on December 24, 2024 that his steam knob slid off and the knob was not turning the steam valve on or off when turning the knob. This can also happen on the knob of the hot water valve.

If you notice, the pin has come out slightly and the black glue is exposed on the threads.

The remaining glue needs to be removed from the brass threads as well as the knob – inside and outside surface area without making the opening wider. We suggest using Loctite 510 red sealant to place at the entrance of the opening on the back end of the knob and on the threads of the valve at the point where the knob enters and seats into the threads of the valve. Allow to sit and dry for 24 hours. The pin can be pushed back in with a tap from a very small wrench.

Do not allow the Loctite 510 anywhere near the holding nut or stem of the valve. After this, hopefully espresso by Lelit can be enjoyed!

When the lever moves erratic or does not return to the top position, an underlying problem may need to be resolved.

First, it can be the coffee grind. Second, a few scenarios where this could happen:

a) There is calcium build up inside the group-head that is hitting the gaskets. Yes, limescale from calcium can build up in as little 2 weeks of use. Try running a descaling solution through the group-head, BUT be very careful to not allow it to touch the finish as it will strip off the clear-coat on the outside, and/or

b) The grease on the shaft wore away. Use a food grade high temp grease and lubricate the shaft from the top and work down, and/or

c) the rolling pins need to be lubricated with the same grease in b).

If the problem persists, then the top of the group-head needs to be removed by removing the Allen keys. A physical inspect needs to take place on the smoothness of the inside of the group-head as well as the gaskets. The shaft and gaskets will need to be lubricated. If the gaskets are too dry, then the water may be too pure, opposite of calcium build up.